Even walls – the basis of perfect repair. You can buy expensive Italian wallpapers or the most beautiful tile in the world, but if at the same time the base, that is, the walls, will not be qualitatively leveled, then nothing good will come out of the repair and even the highest quality finishing materials will look cheap and ugly. To align the walls, you can use drywall or plaster. Plasterboard slabs “eat” the space and they are used only in especially advanced cases, when the difference exceeds 12 ° or 6 centimeters and such radical measures are needed. In other cases, plaster is used, so let’s talk about it.
The first stage of wall alignment is their release from the old finish: wallpaper or tiles, plaster, and so on. Only after that can you accurately evaluate how difficult work is, and only the plaster laid on the maximum purified walls will last well.
Before plastering the walls, it is necessary to primed them. The primer will improve adhesion, that is, the adhesion of the plaster with the surface of the wall, which will not allow it to fall off in the near future, will allow the coating to be more dense and homogeneous. Do not regret the primers – its overspending will pay off a noticeably lower plaster consumption and significantly delayed by the next serious repair. The primer is chosen depending on what surface it has to be applied to: brick, concrete, drywall or some other. If on the surface an oil paint that I would not want to remove, then it will be necessary to make notes for better adhesion. For bathrooms and other places with high humidity, water -repellent and bactericidal primers are perfect that will not be used to develop a fungus or bacteria.
They apply a primer like a paint – a brush, a roller or a special spray, and it is worth applying two layers on a strongly absorbing surface: so the plaster will stay better, and the pores of the walls, qualitatively closed by the primer, will not be too much pulling moisture from it, which leads to drying out.
Next, you need to choose which plaster to use. Plasters are distinguished primarily by the type of astringent: they can be cement or gypsum.
The cement plaster is universal and durable: it is perfect for the outer walls and for the room, it can be used in unheated places like garages or sheds, it is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes. Some heterogeneity of the filler for this plaster (and sand is usually used) gives it even greater strength and resistance. The main minus of cement plaster is that it dries for a very long time – to continue repair work, you have to wait for at least one, or even two weeks. They try not to use it in the apartments, if there is no need for that – for example, due to its moisture resistance, it can be chosen for repair in the bathroom, but in other rooms this is usually not required.
Gypsum plaster, unlike cement, is used just for rooms, especially for those in which humidity is normal, that is, for example, for living rooms, corridors, office rooms and so on. Its filler consists of very small, up to 1 mm of homogeneous particles of quartz, lime or perlite sand. Gypsum plaster is more plastic than cement, it has higher adhesion and, extremely important, it dries in a few hours, so you will not need to stop repairs for a long time. It is also pleasant that such plaster has excellent thermal insulation properties. In addition, gypsum plasters have recently appeared, which are suitable for wet rooms, of course, somewhere in the basement it is better not to use such plaster, but in the bathroom with good ventilation it will show herself quite worthy.
The primer has dried up, the plaster is chosen and purchased – you can mix and apply. But this is not the most trivial task. In order to align the wall with qualitatively, plaster should not just be smeared on it as it seems, but apply, consistent with special marks, and you need to do this evenly and accurately. There are many ways to put tags, but there are two main ones and, as it seems to us, the most convenient.
Method number 1: beacons.
The beacon profile is a perforated metal rail in the form of the letter “T” or similarly fastened wooden blocks.
A plaster solution is applied to the profile, at a distance of about 35 centimeters from point to daughter. Then the rail is pressed against the wall at a distance of 10 centimeters from the corner. This must certainly be done absolutely evenly and strictly vertically – it is necessary to use the level. Reiki at the top and bottom are fixed on the wall with clusters or self -tapping screws, using the holes in them. After that, two thin cords are pulled, horizontally, between each two rails. The rest of the guides are installed already according to these cords. Nails or screws along with cords are removed only after the solution is completely dry.
Method number 2: plumb line.
A plumb line is a strong and long cord or thread, at one end of which a load is fixed (often used, a regular, large enough, nut). The plumb line, thanks to the laws of physics, will hang strictly vertically.
Self -tapping screws are screwed into the wall at a distance from each other. Plumbs are tied to them, and so that they in no case touch the walls. Then they measure the distance from the wall to the thread in two places: next to the self -tapping screw and at the very bottom, near the cargo. It is important to do this accurately enough so as not to shift the thread at the same time. Thus, the curvature of the walls is clarified by vertically. You also need to find out the same data, but for the diagonal. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners into the wall, four more self -tapping screws are screwed on which the threads are fixed with maxmal accuracy – they must touch the plumb line, but do not shift them. On an ideal wall, the distance between the wall and threads will be the same everywhere, but, unfortunately, in our reality, perfectly even walls do not exist. Next, self-tapping screws are screwed up: their hats should be exactly at the height of the threads and exactly to this thickness (to the self-tapping screw) and the plastered layer will be applied. If there are bugs on the walls regarding the threads or even more than the protruding above them, then these protrusions are sure to be twisted or you will have to increase the layer of plaster so that the irregularity is hidden under it at least half a centimeter.
The last of the preparatory work is reinforcing. It is necessary if a layer of plaster is from 3 to 5 centimeters or if the surface for application is very smooth, or to strengthen complex shapes: if you need to plastered arches, curved walls, angles. That is, the preparatory part is included only if the cement plaster is used. In this case, a metal grid is attached to the base. In addition, between layers of plaster, an additional grid of fiberglass is laid. The grid to strengthen gypsum plaster is pressed into a freshly laid out layer, and this must be done quickly enough.
Pay attention to what the maximum thickness of the plaster layer can be – this information can be seen on the package. If at the same time the maximum irregularity does not exceed 3 cm, then one layer will be quite enough – some plaster can be applied with a layer up to 5 cm.
To knead the solution, you need a container: it is better if it is a bucket, not a basin, that is, something more elongated than wide, otherwise the plaster will freeze right there. And an electric drill and a mixer nozzle are also needed for it: the composition must be stirred in a thorough way, and it is almost impossible to do it manually. Knead so much solution to use it for half an hour, no more, otherwise it will freeze and strictly follow the instructions located on the package. The advice of “experienced” repairmen can be useful, but plasters are very, very different – the manufacturer still knows how to make the mixture.
Gypsum plaster is usually put in one layer and try to do everything quickly, but for sure – after all, it freezes almost instantly.
Cement is laid in three stages. First – spray. For it, the most liquid solution is prepared and thrown on the wall. Only when it dries, and for this you will have to wait a day or two, you can proceed to the next stage. Further – the so -called soil, that is, the first “serious” layer of solution. It will be no more than 2 centimeters thick and must also completely dry before the continuation. Neither spray nor soil is made unnecessarily even and smooth – their rough surface will hide under the upper layer and at the same time improve adhesion. Each dried layer before applying the next is moistened with water.
The latter stood cement plaster – covering. It can be a thickness of a half -centimeter to two and will become a “finish” surface on which you can already put a tile or apply a paint.
To apply the plaster, you will need two spatulas: wide and narrow – using a narrow solution is applied to a wide spatula, and with it is already distributed along the wall. Do not forget that the spatula must be pressed tightly. A layer of plaster.. which will be the upper, leveled with the help of the rule. The tool is conducted between the guide -sizes, first on verticals, then – in horizontal and diagonals. You should constantly wipe the rule and wash off the mixture from it with water, since otherwise it will freeze with lumps and damage the even layer.
According to an almost frozen, but also plastic solution, they pass again – from the bottom up to shut up and straighten possible tubercles and other protruding bumps.
Final wall processing – grout. If the wall is supposed to be placed tiles, then this stage is not needed, but if the wall is painted or covered with wallpaper, then it is simply necessary. The most thorough grout is made for walls for painting – after all, any unevenness is visible under it. The grouting robot can start when the upper layer of plaster hardens. To do this, use spongy grater moistened with water. First, it passes through the entire surface in circular motions in one and the other. Then, to wash off the remaining circles, vertically on the sides – up and down. The next day the procedure is repeated. The result should be an extremely smooth, even gleaming surface.